I've converted my basement into a small studio for head and shoulder portraits. I have an ST-E2 which triggers 2 or 3 580EX's through umbrellas. I have 6 energy saving flourescents in the basement which is my ambient light (not by choice - they light the basement when its not a "studio"). One of them is right above where I'm shooting. It's nice to have so the camera quickly focuses but the color from the light is bleeding a little into the shot. I thought the flash would overpower it but it doesn't. When I turn that one light off, its pretty dim. And the subject is in deep shadow. Since I'm using 580's, there is no constant modeling light.

Are there bulbs that I can buy that match the color temperture of flashes. Or should I pop a tungsten bulb in that light socket, gel my flashes to tungsten? Are there any other options?

Thanks!

I think there's a modeling light in the custom functions of the 580ex?

triggered only when it's on board I believe, and it's hell on batteries and heats it up something silly.

I think it's more gimick than useful.

The first and one of the most important things to do is to get a spotlight with a 50watt daylight balanced bulb and point it right at your models face. This will cause their iris to close so you can see the color of their eyes not just a big black pupil (sp?). Place it far enough away and use a faster shutter speed so it has no effect on the image. It will also provide enough light to work.
If that isn't enough light then get another lamp with a dim bulb and point it at a far wall that will not show up in the models eyes as a strange catchlight. Make sure that the ambient light is at least 3 stops below your flash output. It will be dark in there but that is better than weird color casts and strange shadows.

I only know about the 580EX's model light when used ON the camera by pressing the DOF Preview button next to the lens mount release button. Just don't press the lens mount release by accident!

If the spotlight isn't in the exposure, why does it need to be a daylight balanced bulb?

Hey Lou,

I work as a cinematographer a lot and we deal with this on a regular basis.

Are they florescent tubes? If so one of the easiest things to do might be just replace your current florescent bulbs to daylight bulbs that will match your 580Xs. This will also look natural when you need your regular light on non photo times.

I've replaced bulbs with these Vita-Lite which are daylight balanced to 5500K

http://www.naturallighting.com/web/shop.ph...ion=show_detail

Otherwise for ease and just to work with what you are doing. I would gel the light above you. A magenta filter that will counter act the green of the florecent to match it to daylight. Here is a brief article from a cinematographers view which lists the specific filter numbers http://mis15.ncarts.edu/film/282/fluorescent_lighting.html

You can either get large sheets that you can just clothes pin over the lights when you need them - or they also make special florescent bulb gels that the whole bulb slides into - which might be a pain.

Just in case
I have caught myself placing it too close or having my model move toward the light and had some light balance issues because of it. Basically, I try to make things in the studio so that even if I do something dumb it won't ruin my pictures.
BTW you look like a British footballer in your new avatar!

Ok, looks like I need to pick up a daylight balanced bulb. That seems like it will do the trick. Are these hard to get? I see the link you provided. Thanks for that. But can I get these at the local hardware store? Or are these deemed "specialty" bulbs?

Thanks Again!

I can't imagine the light spilling over unless you are shooting wide open at 60th of a second or below. A 5.6 at 250th ISO 100 should kill that fluorescent I would think. What exposure range are you usually shooting in and can you post some examples?

Cheers,
Zack

Hey Zack,

Ya know I didn't think it would effect the shot either.



Can you see the orangey hue behind them?

Here's the exif.
Aperture: f/2.8
ISO: 200
Exposure Time: 1/30
Flash: Flash fired, compulsory flash mode
Exposure Program: Manual
White Balance: auto

Maybe I should try and stop down a bit and speed up the shutter speed. It's funny. I have no idea why I chose those settings.

Speeding up the shutter speed will help decrease the ambient lighting.

THe ST-E2 has focus assist built into it also. It should let you focus in a pitch dark room.

I _am_ a British footballer! Except that I am not from Britian and that I don't play professionally...

k

Yea...it's supposed to, but those things are soo touchy and the transmission is hit and miss....I don't rely on them. I'm also not using them in a studio, though...I'm much more "on the go" with mine, which is a big part of the problem!!

I've seen LED flashlights that attach to your tripod mount which could help also. Will always be pointed in the right direction. Only problem is I don't remember exactly where I saw them at. :-(

Just an FYI.... As long as your exposer is greater than 2 stops from your ambient light, then the ambient light should not effect your image. This has always been the rule for film.
I would do some testing before you spend any money.

Phil

True but to be safe I would go at least 3 stops as DSLRs pick up lots of info in the shadows...except for the catchlights. I forgot to mention that in my earlier post, sorry. Virtually any light from the front will be reflected in the eyes, you will probably have to spot it out. No big deal though as it is a very small spot.

FYI, the daylight-balanced tungstens I've used (from GE, I think) were rated with a 3-hour life. Needless to say, I only use them in very special circumstances.

2.8 @ 30th of second is your problem. Up the power on your strobes 2 stops to 5.6 and shoot at your sync speed (somewhere around 250th) and you'll be set.

Cheers,
Zack