I definitely need some help with mastering the art of reception shots (ie dancing). I see some incredibly clear dancing shots from people on here and I need some advice on how to handle that. There is always minimal lighting and sometimes some moving lights on the dancefloor, and I seem to be getting varying results with my flash.

I use ETTL with a Gary Fong diffuser, and sometimes it freezes the action and other times it simply leaves too many light trails. I tend to be an Aperture Priority shooter for most of the day (as I love to achieve minimum depth of field in most shots) but I've heard that this mode isn't great for evening shots.

Any advice on what I should be using? Any other threads which deal with this (I have looked but cannot find). If you guys have any photos from reception shots I would love to see them and have you explain how you created them.

Thanks so much in advance.

What speed is your flash firing at? On aperture priority it would normally sync to 1/60 when it's darker so that's not enough to freeze movement. You need to shoot manual and knock your speed up to 1/125 at least...

Yeah it sounds like because you're using AP it making your shutter dragging quite a bit, which can be good or bad depending on the look you are going after. It's hard for me to say though, I shoot everything on manuel for this reason, so I get to be in control of what is happening...

zack's one light class.

after that you'll be manual mode and with off-camera lighting and reception/dance challenges will be a thing of the past.


until then;
try doing what you're doing but in shutter, not aperture priority -- 1/25th of a second tends to be right amount of movement


http://bp2.blogger.com/_srZtmqIdBhE/SGmhdH...h/sAnne_421.jpg
http://bp0.blogger.com/_srZtmqIdBhE/SFNZ27...+Graham_369.jpg

I would love to do Zack's One Light Class, but living in England means it's unlikely I'll get to do it. Shame as I've heard rave reviews.

Thanks for that advice. I will definitely try it out on Manual and Shutter Priority and see what I get. Flash is something I really want to master so will see if there are any classes close by in the UK.

Thanks Guys!!

The rig I use is Vivtar 285hv with remote triggers with and on camera flash. Right now that is using MicroSync, but I am switching to Pocket Wizard. For those wedding reception shots you have to use manual. Even if you do not move to a 2nd light set up. Try it sometime. Set your ISO to your desired speed. 1/60 is fast enough to stop the action depending on your ISO selection, because the flash duration at 1/1000th a second with stop the action.

At a reception with my multiple light set up I shoot between 800-1600 usually @ 1/60 @ f/2.8. I can freeze the beer being silled mid air! LOL! If the technically inclined if you keep the exposure difference between your strobe exposure between 3 to 4 stops higher than your ambient exposure you will stop your action. That is a combo of aperture / shutter speed / and ISO. I try to stay right around three stops. That does the trick.

I would say to start improving start with going to manual. Because your flash will do the job it needs to make the exposure "right." That is the easy answer. Then go to...

http://www.strobist.blogspot.com/

To start learning some tricks!

While I shoot Av all day long, when it comes to Flash at the receptions.. NO WAY. Manual all the way.

Flash - Set to Rear Curtain Sync (Custom Function OR on the flash as 3 arrows on Canon)

Then, for the most part, anywhere from 1/15-60th @ 2.8, ISO 800. Why the slow shutter speed? Pick up ambient light. Some places are slow (1/15 or even rarely 1/10) some are ok at 1/50 and 1/60.

Also, depending on the amount of time I have to setup, I use a second room light, in addition to my on camera. These were a couple shots taken for a wedding I shot a couple weeks ago as a second shooter with Janette Diaz in Chicago. She loved the setup and wanted to know how I did it. It's just a Sunpak 120J with battery pack and a pocket wizard. 120J was set to 1/64 or 1/32 to keep the recycle time fast.

1/60th @ 2.8, ISO 400 for the most part.....

Jim,

Do you have find yourself missing accurate focus at 2.8 because of the shallow depth of field?

Jodi,
I shoot at 1600, 1/60 and 4.0 and adjust flash accordingly. But definitely shoot manual at the receptions. With flash, going with Av mode is too hard to get what you want.

If I am using my lightsphere with no off camera flash (which I rarely do anymore), I usually shoot at 400 ISO, F4. My shutter ranges from 1/15 to 1/90, depending on the light in the room, and how much light the dj lights are flashing.

If I use off camera flash, my fstop will depend on how close the flash is to the subject. I usually set up 2 flashes. One is an old Metz, and I can't go lower than 1/4 power. I use this to do some rim lighting. So, I have it about sholder high. So, if they are close to the flash, I sometimes have to shoot at F6.7 or F8. The other flash I use is a nikon, and I try to keep it up high, and far away to do some side lighting. I typically have this set between 1/4 and 1/2 power, and my Fstop is usually around 4.8. I don't like shooting High ISO's (I like clean images) and I don't like too wide of aperture on dancing shots, because they are moving so much they move out of the focus too easily.

I shoot kinda simple for now - canon flash in slave mode on light stand opposite me (B+G sandwiched between us) - ettl. My 580exII held-off camera with a TTL cord which triggers the other light. I move around to get the rim-lighting I like - shooting with either the 50/1.8 or 28/1.8 between 1.8 and 2.8 which is very shallow but I can nail a few good shots like this. Oh and shooting AV. iso is between 1000-1600 depending on ambient.

= flashes do all the calculating for me.

When My PW's finally arrive Ill have a crack at shooting smarter with manual power.

Jonathan

Nope. I don't have any problems. I have my 5D set to External Assist only, so the flash on camera does a good job of focusing and I have no problems with that.

And I take back what I said about rear curtain. At least when using a second light. DO NOT USE REAR CURTAIN WHEN USING POCKETWIZARDS or any other type of transmitter (exception being the Radio Poppers) Why? You on camera flash will fire on the rear curtain. Off camera via radio will fire front curtain. See the problem????? You'll get ghosts on every image... which doesn't look nice. Take it from someone who's learned the hard way.

I wonder about these things myself.

Another thing I wonder about, is where and how to set up a second wireless flash. Are you using a light stand, or bungy tying it somewhere near the dancefloor?

I'm always looking for a way to get just a little more ambient looking flash kick on the otherwise black hole of the dancefloor.

Jeff

All your replies are fantastic but they are making me realise I am absolutely clueless when it comes to flash. I need to book myself a course in flash NOW!!!

Thanks to all of you for your helpful info.

Jim, how do you do make sure your camera is set to EA only? I couldn't find anything about it in my manual and Google isn't turning up much. I have a 30D but I'm hoping the option is available.

Jodie,

Since you can't go to a workshop now... this might help.

I posted this over a year ago:

http://www.opensourcephoto.net/forum/index...c=15280&hl=

I hope this is still helping people out there with lighting questions.

-Christobal

I know there are a lot of replies and I haven't read through all of them so I hope I'm not repeating.

I'm not a lighting genius but I do about the same thing every reception and happy with the results. Thanks to Jason Groupp!

ISO 640 - NO lightsphere, I use the built-in bounce card, f/2.8 and adjust from 1/40 - 1/60th. I always shoot manual - especially when using a flash.

Always, always, always shoot into the light and the deep part of the room. don't shoot up against the wall if you can help it.

below are a few examples from two recent weddings. I chose these because I knew they were on my server already and I'm working from my laptop away from home. Unless the room is dark with orange walls and dark floors all of my reception shots look about the same. It's the easiest way to do it and you'll always love the results.