Kari
January 16 2007, 08:30 PM
QUOTE(SamTheMan @ January 16 2007, 09:43 PM) [snapback]50418[/snapback]
OK, I've got a question for all of you RAW shooters...
I've just accepted an assignment (yeah!!) to shoot a CD rear cover image and to cover the CD release party for a local worship group. Cool assignment, but they hired me because the photog they hired for the front cover used flash and there are shadows in all of the images. I only have one flash (minus the D70's built-in flash) and some flood lighting on-site.
And then I started thinking (yes, I do do this on occassion) can't I just shoot RAW in manual mode - let's say 1/250 at f/5.6 or f/8 - and correct the under exposure in my computer?
Now, if "yes" how do I correct the RAW image without CS2 or Nikon Capture (I only have PS CS)? I could always use the demos of these programs too.
Hold on Sam.... be careful here. It depends on how underexposed you are. Yes, you can pull a few stops out of an underexposed image, but I don't like to ever go more than a full stop. Even then, it depends on the ISO. The higher the ISO, the less forgiving it is. with 1600 ISO, I don't like to be more than 1/2 stop under. It has saved my butt a few times when I was off, but I still try to shoot dead on. A file looks much better if properly exposed, even a raw file.
The only time I have purposely underexposed a RAW image is if it is a "get the shot, or not get the shot" situation with the amount of light I have. Example... I was shooting a gymnastic meet where no flash was allowed. I was shooting max aperture on my zoom lens (2.8) max ISO (1600). I knew I needed at least 1/125 to catch the action, and in reality, even 1/180 or 1/250 would have been better. My ambient light was reading at 1/90. I knew I would have gotten just a blur at that shutter speed. So, I bumped it up to 1/180, and brought the file up in RAW. It did add more grain than I like. But, it was either that, or not getting the image at all.