I have always hated using my flash but after seeing all of the wonderful off camera flash work by OSPers, I am finally ready to stop being a chicken at learn how to use off camera flash. I am hoping the slow season will give me some time to practice. (I am on a waitlist for the Detroit One Light Workshop, but since I may not get the opportunity to attend, I thought I would try to get started on my own.)
I have checked out some of the previous posts here, stobist, Zach's One Light wishlist on B&H, but I was wondering if anyone could help me with the specific cords and accessories I need to make the Pocket Wizards functional with my gear. I am just looking for the basics right now, but if there is additonal gear you think I should consider please add that as well to your suggestions.
I am planning on getting 2 Pocket Wizards Plus II units.
I have a 580EX, 580EXII (and 2 420EX) flashes
At risk of sounding like an idiot, if the type of camera I shoot with matters, 5D, 40D and 20D
Thanks in advance!
Full Version: Pocket Wizards - What else do I need?
Hi Jen,
Zach recently opened a forum where you can find great information and resources about off-camera lighting. The benefit of the 580EX II is that you won't need the adaptor the 580EX requires. The forum has lots of details about cables and setup, check it out:
http://www.onelightworkshop.com/forum/index.php
I hope you get into the workshop. I learned a lot from Zach
Lori
Zach recently opened a forum where you can find great information and resources about off-camera lighting. The benefit of the 580EX II is that you won't need the adaptor the 580EX requires. The forum has lots of details about cables and setup, check it out:
http://www.onelightworkshop.com/forum/index.php
I hope you get into the workshop. I learned a lot from Zach
Lori
QUOTE(JenD @ November 27 2007, 08:02 PM) 
I have a 580EX, 580EXII (and 2 420EX) flashes
Hey Jen!
You are already in great shape to do off camera lighting. Granted I'm a bit biased, but here's my honest suggestion for everything it's worth......
(Not sure how much you know on this so I don't mean any insult if I'm telling you what's obvious here)
1. Your existing flashes will shoot wireless off-camera without pocket wizards. If you put one of them on your camera (any of them) and put them in "Master" mode (the little switch at the bottom), it will send a serries of very fast light pulses which will activate the other flashes wirelessly. The other 3 - put in "Slave" mode. Leave their mode "ETTL" (the default mode) and they will "see" the pusles of light coming off the master and activate wirelessly.
2. As long as those slave units are in a small room or placed close to the master, they'll fire pretty reliably - look at the stuff on my website and blog - I shoot these flashes in that mode all the time, no PW's used.
3. The real advantage to using this method is that the camera will set the power output and exposure level of the slave flashes for each shot automatically. With PW's, you have to manually push your remote flashes up and down by hand and trial and error (or buy an external flash light meter, which really isn't necessary if you use the method above).
4. To adjust the overall output of the flashes use the Flash Exposure Compensation (FEC) - I feel this is the most under documented and under known and under appreciated feature of your entire camera system. It's the little symbol with the lightning bolt and the +/-. Push that up and all the flashes fire brighter, push it down and they all fire less - INDEPENDANT of your regular exposure settings (shutter speed, aperture). This is hugly powerful - if you want just a "touch" of extra light, dial the FEC down to -2 stops.
5. The only real limitation of the optical system (the wireless already built into your flashes) is that they have to "see" eachother and this isn't reliable in a fast moving situation where the shot is critical (like a bride coming down an isle - wouldn't dare shoot that with the current system). I have invented a product due to release in January called the RadioPopper that will fix this problem - it'll interperete the optical signal and send it over a radio signal - think of it like a PW that sends the ETTL information of your existing flashes. Check it out here: www.radiopopper.com - feel free to email me or ask here if you have any questions on that.
6. I would highly suggest you practice with what you've got and see how you like it. You've already got everything you need - you don't need to spend another dime to create awesome off camera stuff with the 4 flashes already in your bag. If you notice they mis-fire a lot because they don't "see" eachother, just know that RadioPopper will solve that problem in a couple months. And if you hate using ETTL (the existing system) then fine - you can always get PW's later, but remember again you're going to have to manually adjust the output power of your flashes individually and adjust your camera's exposure manually as appropriate - which boils down to a lot of trail and error, or a lot of brain work.
Taking advantage of wireless flash was a HUGE improvement in my own work - I owe a lot of my current ability to learning to use off camera lighting - and it's something that's not very well documented. The current industry standard is the PW because it's reliable, but in my opinion, not very usable in the situations we wedding and on location portrait shooters find ourselves in. I'm frustrated to see so little good information out there and so much mis-information and repeated poor advise and tribal knowledge on lighthing. I really hope the RadioPopper product will change a lot of that. With a part of the proceeds, I plan to fund some free online training videos that show the quick basics of how to use your current flashes. You can do some powerful stuff with these flashes and you don't even have to think about it. Between adjusting your FEC and regular exposure compensation dials, you can create some very dramatic looks with very little thought or effort - which is good, becuase we usually have to create these images in the middel of chaos with very little time.
I'd be happy to answer any questions you've got....
best of luck to you!!!
p.s. - I think off camera flash is the next "big" thing in this business. It's one of those ways an individual can separate themselves from their competitors. Everyone's got actions now, most people are shooting the same gear and producing a very similar look to their images - but the only way to get that punchy off camera light look - is to dig in and learn the lighting. It's going to be an exciting time - people are doing amazing work with their lights these days and I think this is only the start.
QUOTE(Kevin King @ November 28 2007, 01:00 AM)
but the only way to get that punchy off camera light look - is to dig in and learn the lighting. It's going to be an exciting time - people are doing amazing work with their lights these days and I think this is only the start.
Very true, and right on the mark!
You need some Pocket Fairies and Elves, definitely more elves...
QUOTE(LoriWo @ November 27 2007, 11:11 PM)
Hi Jen,
Zach recently opened a forum where you can find great information and resources about off-camera lighting. The benefit of the 580EX II is that you won't need the adaptor the 580EX requires. The forum has lots of details about cables and setup, check it out:
http://www.onelightworkshop.com/forum/index.php
I hope you get into the workshop. I learned a lot from Zach
Lori
Zach recently opened a forum where you can find great information and resources about off-camera lighting. The benefit of the 580EX II is that you won't need the adaptor the 580EX requires. The forum has lots of details about cables and setup, check it out:
http://www.onelightworkshop.com/forum/index.php
I hope you get into the workshop. I learned a lot from Zach
Lori
Thanks Lori! Appreciate the info on the forum! I'll be in trouble with my husband if I find another forum to occupy more of my time!
QUOTE(Kevin King @ November 28 2007, 01:00 AM)
Hey Jen!
You are already in great shape to do off camera lighting. Granted I'm a bit biased, but here's my honest suggestion for everything it's worth......
(Not sure how much you know on this so I don't mean any insult if I'm telling you what's obvious here)
1. Your existing flashes will shoot wireless off-camera without pocket wizards. If you put one of them on your camera (any of them) and put them in "Master" mode (the little switch at the bottom), it will send a serries of very fast light pulses which will activate the other flashes wirelessly. The other 3 - put in "Slave" mode. Leave their mode "ETTL" (the default mode) and they will "see" the pusles of light coming off the master and activate wirelessly.
2. As long as those slave units are in a small room or placed close to the master, they'll fire pretty reliably - look at the stuff on my website and blog - I shoot these flashes in that mode all the time, no PW's used.
3. The real advantage to using this method is that the camera will set the power output and exposure level of the slave flashes for each shot automatically. With PW's, you have to manually push your remote flashes up and down by hand and trial and error (or buy an external flash light meter, which really isn't necessary if you use the method above).
4. To adjust the overall output of the flashes use the Flash Exposure Compensation (FEC) - I feel this is the most under documented and under known and under appreciated feature of your entire camera system. It's the little symbol with the lightning bolt and the +/-. Push that up and all the flashes fire brighter, push it down and they all fire less - INDEPENDANT of your regular exposure settings (shutter speed, aperture). This is hugly powerful - if you want just a "touch" of extra light, dial the FEC down to -2 stops.
5. The only real limitation of the optical system (the wireless already built into your flashes) is that they have to "see" eachother and this isn't reliable in a fast moving situation where the shot is critical (like a bride coming down an isle - wouldn't dare shoot that with the current system). I have invented a product due to release in January called the RadioPopper that will fix this problem - it'll interperete the optical signal and send it over a radio signal - think of it like a PW that sends the ETTL information of your existing flashes. Check it out here: www.radiopopper.com - feel free to email me or ask here if you have any questions on that.
6. I would highly suggest you practice with what you've got and see how you like it. You've already got everything you need - you don't need to spend another dime to create awesome off camera stuff with the 4 flashes already in your bag. If you notice they mis-fire a lot because they don't "see" eachother, just know that RadioPopper will solve that problem in a couple months. And if you hate using ETTL (the existing system) then fine - you can always get PW's later, but remember again you're going to have to manually adjust the output power of your flashes individually and adjust your camera's exposure manually as appropriate - which boils down to a lot of trail and error, or a lot of brain work.
Taking advantage of wireless flash was a HUGE improvement in my own work - I owe a lot of my current ability to learning to use off camera lighting - and it's something that's not very well documented. The current industry standard is the PW because it's reliable, but in my opinion, not very usable in the situations we wedding and on location portrait shooters find ourselves in. I'm frustrated to see so little good information out there and so much mis-information and repeated poor advise and tribal knowledge on lighthing. I really hope the RadioPopper product will change a lot of that. With a part of the proceeds, I plan to fund some free online training videos that show the quick basics of how to use your current flashes. You can do some powerful stuff with these flashes and you don't even have to think about it. Between adjusting your FEC and regular exposure compensation dials, you can create some very dramatic looks with very little thought or effort - which is good, becuase we usually have to create these images in the middel of chaos with very little time.
I'd be happy to answer any questions you've got....
best of luck to you!!!
p.s. - I think off camera flash is the next "big" thing in this business. It's one of those ways an individual can separate themselves from their competitors. Everyone's got actions now, most people are shooting the same gear and producing a very similar look to their images - but the only way to get that punchy off camera light look - is to dig in and learn the lighting. It's going to be an exciting time - people are doing amazing work with their lights these days and I think this is only the start.
You are already in great shape to do off camera lighting. Granted I'm a bit biased, but here's my honest suggestion for everything it's worth......
(Not sure how much you know on this so I don't mean any insult if I'm telling you what's obvious here)
1. Your existing flashes will shoot wireless off-camera without pocket wizards. If you put one of them on your camera (any of them) and put them in "Master" mode (the little switch at the bottom), it will send a serries of very fast light pulses which will activate the other flashes wirelessly. The other 3 - put in "Slave" mode. Leave their mode "ETTL" (the default mode) and they will "see" the pusles of light coming off the master and activate wirelessly.
2. As long as those slave units are in a small room or placed close to the master, they'll fire pretty reliably - look at the stuff on my website and blog - I shoot these flashes in that mode all the time, no PW's used.
3. The real advantage to using this method is that the camera will set the power output and exposure level of the slave flashes for each shot automatically. With PW's, you have to manually push your remote flashes up and down by hand and trial and error (or buy an external flash light meter, which really isn't necessary if you use the method above).
4. To adjust the overall output of the flashes use the Flash Exposure Compensation (FEC) - I feel this is the most under documented and under known and under appreciated feature of your entire camera system. It's the little symbol with the lightning bolt and the +/-. Push that up and all the flashes fire brighter, push it down and they all fire less - INDEPENDANT of your regular exposure settings (shutter speed, aperture). This is hugly powerful - if you want just a "touch" of extra light, dial the FEC down to -2 stops.
5. The only real limitation of the optical system (the wireless already built into your flashes) is that they have to "see" eachother and this isn't reliable in a fast moving situation where the shot is critical (like a bride coming down an isle - wouldn't dare shoot that with the current system). I have invented a product due to release in January called the RadioPopper that will fix this problem - it'll interperete the optical signal and send it over a radio signal - think of it like a PW that sends the ETTL information of your existing flashes. Check it out here: www.radiopopper.com - feel free to email me or ask here if you have any questions on that.
6. I would highly suggest you practice with what you've got and see how you like it. You've already got everything you need - you don't need to spend another dime to create awesome off camera stuff with the 4 flashes already in your bag. If you notice they mis-fire a lot because they don't "see" eachother, just know that RadioPopper will solve that problem in a couple months. And if you hate using ETTL (the existing system) then fine - you can always get PW's later, but remember again you're going to have to manually adjust the output power of your flashes individually and adjust your camera's exposure manually as appropriate - which boils down to a lot of trail and error, or a lot of brain work.
Taking advantage of wireless flash was a HUGE improvement in my own work - I owe a lot of my current ability to learning to use off camera lighting - and it's something that's not very well documented. The current industry standard is the PW because it's reliable, but in my opinion, not very usable in the situations we wedding and on location portrait shooters find ourselves in. I'm frustrated to see so little good information out there and so much mis-information and repeated poor advise and tribal knowledge on lighthing. I really hope the RadioPopper product will change a lot of that. With a part of the proceeds, I plan to fund some free online training videos that show the quick basics of how to use your current flashes. You can do some powerful stuff with these flashes and you don't even have to think about it. Between adjusting your FEC and regular exposure compensation dials, you can create some very dramatic looks with very little thought or effort - which is good, becuase we usually have to create these images in the middel of chaos with very little time.
I'd be happy to answer any questions you've got....
best of luck to you!!!
p.s. - I think off camera flash is the next "big" thing in this business. It's one of those ways an individual can separate themselves from their competitors. Everyone's got actions now, most people are shooting the same gear and producing a very similar look to their images - but the only way to get that punchy off camera light look - is to dig in and learn the lighting. It's going to be an exciting time - people are doing amazing work with their lights these days and I think this is only the start.
Thank you so much Kevin for your time to write everything you did. First off, I am not insulted at all! I was going to add "explain it to me like I am a 5th grader" to my original post.
I completely agree that I think lighting is something that can really separate an individual from their competitors! I wanted to take on some sort of new skill to "master" or at least get better at and for the reasons you mentioned, I thought off lighting would be a good place to start.
I've played a little with FEC for my on camera flash but I am sure I could do so much more with it!
I actually checked out the radiopopper site a few weeks ago and was very interested. I just am eager to get started...does it look like the project date for the radiopopper will hold true?
Thanks again for your time and advice! Much appreciated!
Glad to help Jen.
It looks like the January release is in good shape. We made a last minute upgrade to the product last week which caused us to have to re-design and re-work some of the stuff we'd already done (the board design and such) - which caused a 2 to 3 week overall delay, but we're definately close. I should know actual for sure calendar dates before Christmas. We should ship by February at the very latest unless something awful happens during our last few steps and I'm pretty confident we've got everything dialed in.
I can't say enough about using the wireless already built into your flashes - you can pull off very dramatic stuff with very little thought (as far as power settings, ratios, f/stops, etc).
Try this setup to get you started......
1. Set your 580EX on your camera, and flip the little switch to "Master". Then, go into the menu and figure out how to make it "not fire" - you want to set the display so the little flash symbol doesn't show a bolt coming out of it anymore. (I shoot 550's which are slightly different - but check your manual and figure it out for yours - you're looking for "Master Emits?" or something like that. Basically, you want the on-camera flash to "command" the slave, but not actually contribute any light to the shot itself.
Note it will still flash a light that you can see - but it's quicker than a regular flash - this light doesn't add to the exposure, it's just a very fast communcation message to your slave flash - so just because it's still making bursts of light, don't let that throw you.
2. Set your 580EX II to "slave" mode - I understand you have to hold a button on the menu for 5 seconds or something for this. You could also set one of your 420's as a slave (I think they have a switch on the bottom?).
Okay, now when you shoot, you should see a very quick flash from the on-camera, and the "slave" should also fire. Once you get that, move along...
3. (assuming you're indoors, low room light) - set your camera to M mode (not the flash... just the camera, so you're setting the shutter and fstop yourself). Set your shutter to 1/50, and set your f/stop to f/4.0. Set your ISO around 400. Set your FEC to center (0).
Now shoot. You should get a perfectly exposed image with your slave being the main light source, and if you've got a bit of room light, you should see some golden color from the lamps or whatever. Pretty light huh? If you want more or less flash then use the FEC to adjust. Rule of thumb - if you're shooting at black (grey can on black sofa) - dial FEC to -1 stop. If you're shooting a white wedding cake, shoot +2/3 stop FEC.
Now move that slave all around. See what happens to the picture. Stuffed animals work great for subjects on this. Play with different types of bounce - high, low, off a wall, side, behind.... go crazy.
4. Once you figure that out a bit (I use that example first because it's easier to see what the flash is really doing).... take the next step, go outdoors in the shade in afternoon, and do some "fill" flash. Same flash setup except....
... set your camera to Av mode. Dial in f/5.6. Let it set the shutter for you.... but make sure it's not going faster than 1/250. If it is, stop down a bit, or lower the ISO, or find deeper shade. Just trust me for this example to keep it under 1/250 (and if you notice everything is studdenly "over exposed" this is probably why).
Do the same thing... except now your camera will "properly expose" the shot (f/stop vs. shutter vs. ISO) as always... but now it's going to try and "fill" the shot with a bit of flash. I always think it fills with too much flash, so just dial back your FEC a bit. I shoot around -1 to -1 2/3 for this.
Practice using a bit of light to just "kiss" the subject. You won't hardly see it - but save your mis-fires (when the slave doesn't trigger) and click between them... you'll see a dramatic difference with the flash added. Hint: Always put the fill flash on the shadow side of the subject.
Play with that a bit. Cool isn't it?
5. When you're ready to really get crazy and make your first "I can't believe it was that easy" shot.... check this out......
Find a rather bright background.. maybe a sky with some clouds. Put that behind the subject.... not directly into the sun, but something a bit bright. Now dial down your Exposure Comp (not the FEC, the *regular* exposure comp... the function of the dial without pushing the FEC button)..... Dial the EC down to about -1 to -2 (or more for more drama). This will make the background expose darker, which the camera will make up for with..... more flash. Now take your FEC and set it at +1/3.
We just told the camera to under expose the whole scene, but to add that exposure back in with flash. You should see a dramatically flash lit subject in what appears to be a strangly dark setting. I do this all the time.... LOTS and LOTS. My favorite trick. If everything keeps looking over exposed, (1/250 is blinking) then turn on High Speed Sync and try again. Nevermind why right now, just try it and see.
If those produced results for you... you're probably pretty amped about how easy it really is. All of that without even thinking of a ratio, considering power settings, what f/ value to set your flash at and the coresponding camera settings... nope. Nodda. All you have to do is memorize those two main setups in the first 2 excersises and you can do off cam flash as quick as dialing them in, and once you practice, you'll drop in and out of those settings in about 5 seconds - while talking to someone and changing memory cards at the same time.
When as many people who have discovered Actions and Lightroom Presets discover those 2 setting combos... I think the landscape of wedding photography will change in a major way. It's incredibly easy and frees you to focus on what's important in the shoot rather than piddling with settings.
Again, I'm biased, but that's why I pursued this RadioPopper concept to an obsession over the last year because it's the key to making "easy wireless flash" reliable enough to shoot constantly.
This is actually good for me also... I'm going to boil down this "recepie" to post on the RP website... more clean and concsise and with nice pictures of the display on the flash itself. I'm going to put it up as a PDF you can print and put in your camera bag. Please let me know if this is helpful.... if you try this stuff and hit snags or are confused, please let me know. I want to tailor all of the above to be as easily understandable and helpful as possible.
Good luck!!
It looks like the January release is in good shape. We made a last minute upgrade to the product last week which caused us to have to re-design and re-work some of the stuff we'd already done (the board design and such) - which caused a 2 to 3 week overall delay, but we're definately close. I should know actual for sure calendar dates before Christmas. We should ship by February at the very latest unless something awful happens during our last few steps and I'm pretty confident we've got everything dialed in.
I can't say enough about using the wireless already built into your flashes - you can pull off very dramatic stuff with very little thought (as far as power settings, ratios, f/stops, etc).
Try this setup to get you started......
1. Set your 580EX on your camera, and flip the little switch to "Master". Then, go into the menu and figure out how to make it "not fire" - you want to set the display so the little flash symbol doesn't show a bolt coming out of it anymore. (I shoot 550's which are slightly different - but check your manual and figure it out for yours - you're looking for "Master Emits?" or something like that. Basically, you want the on-camera flash to "command" the slave, but not actually contribute any light to the shot itself.
Note it will still flash a light that you can see - but it's quicker than a regular flash - this light doesn't add to the exposure, it's just a very fast communcation message to your slave flash - so just because it's still making bursts of light, don't let that throw you.
2. Set your 580EX II to "slave" mode - I understand you have to hold a button on the menu for 5 seconds or something for this. You could also set one of your 420's as a slave (I think they have a switch on the bottom?).
Okay, now when you shoot, you should see a very quick flash from the on-camera, and the "slave" should also fire. Once you get that, move along...
3. (assuming you're indoors, low room light) - set your camera to M mode (not the flash... just the camera, so you're setting the shutter and fstop yourself). Set your shutter to 1/50, and set your f/stop to f/4.0. Set your ISO around 400. Set your FEC to center (0).
Now shoot. You should get a perfectly exposed image with your slave being the main light source, and if you've got a bit of room light, you should see some golden color from the lamps or whatever. Pretty light huh? If you want more or less flash then use the FEC to adjust. Rule of thumb - if you're shooting at black (grey can on black sofa) - dial FEC to -1 stop. If you're shooting a white wedding cake, shoot +2/3 stop FEC.
Now move that slave all around. See what happens to the picture. Stuffed animals work great for subjects on this. Play with different types of bounce - high, low, off a wall, side, behind.... go crazy.
4. Once you figure that out a bit (I use that example first because it's easier to see what the flash is really doing).... take the next step, go outdoors in the shade in afternoon, and do some "fill" flash. Same flash setup except....
... set your camera to Av mode. Dial in f/5.6. Let it set the shutter for you.... but make sure it's not going faster than 1/250. If it is, stop down a bit, or lower the ISO, or find deeper shade. Just trust me for this example to keep it under 1/250 (and if you notice everything is studdenly "over exposed" this is probably why).
Do the same thing... except now your camera will "properly expose" the shot (f/stop vs. shutter vs. ISO) as always... but now it's going to try and "fill" the shot with a bit of flash. I always think it fills with too much flash, so just dial back your FEC a bit. I shoot around -1 to -1 2/3 for this.
Practice using a bit of light to just "kiss" the subject. You won't hardly see it - but save your mis-fires (when the slave doesn't trigger) and click between them... you'll see a dramatic difference with the flash added. Hint: Always put the fill flash on the shadow side of the subject.
Play with that a bit. Cool isn't it?
5. When you're ready to really get crazy and make your first "I can't believe it was that easy" shot.... check this out......
Find a rather bright background.. maybe a sky with some clouds. Put that behind the subject.... not directly into the sun, but something a bit bright. Now dial down your Exposure Comp (not the FEC, the *regular* exposure comp... the function of the dial without pushing the FEC button)..... Dial the EC down to about -1 to -2 (or more for more drama). This will make the background expose darker, which the camera will make up for with..... more flash. Now take your FEC and set it at +1/3.
We just told the camera to under expose the whole scene, but to add that exposure back in with flash. You should see a dramatically flash lit subject in what appears to be a strangly dark setting. I do this all the time.... LOTS and LOTS. My favorite trick. If everything keeps looking over exposed, (1/250 is blinking) then turn on High Speed Sync and try again. Nevermind why right now, just try it and see.
If those produced results for you... you're probably pretty amped about how easy it really is. All of that without even thinking of a ratio, considering power settings, what f/ value to set your flash at and the coresponding camera settings... nope. Nodda. All you have to do is memorize those two main setups in the first 2 excersises and you can do off cam flash as quick as dialing them in, and once you practice, you'll drop in and out of those settings in about 5 seconds - while talking to someone and changing memory cards at the same time.
When as many people who have discovered Actions and Lightroom Presets discover those 2 setting combos... I think the landscape of wedding photography will change in a major way. It's incredibly easy and frees you to focus on what's important in the shoot rather than piddling with settings.
Again, I'm biased, but that's why I pursued this RadioPopper concept to an obsession over the last year because it's the key to making "easy wireless flash" reliable enough to shoot constantly.
This is actually good for me also... I'm going to boil down this "recepie" to post on the RP website... more clean and concsise and with nice pictures of the display on the flash itself. I'm going to put it up as a PDF you can print and put in your camera bag. Please let me know if this is helpful.... if you try this stuff and hit snags or are confused, please let me know. I want to tailor all of the above to be as easily understandable and helpful as possible.
Good luck!!
kevin... man. I can't wait to experiement with this.. I think you are going to be my new hero.. I was in a similar boat and thinking about asking for pw's for xmas this year.. no more hey!? And what is the RP website? I would love to get a copy of this.
You're a rock star.
You're a rock star.
I think Colin and I have just become the biggest shareholders in Paul Buff inc. in the past 4 months....
more to come....and show.
griff
ps. i have 3 pocket wizards (soon to be 6), a 580ex II, 2 580s, 550, 540, a 3 million candlelight power spotlight, strobes, batteries, and all kinds of sources, reflectors, swatters..etc.
more to come....and show.
griff
ps. i have 3 pocket wizards (soon to be 6), a 580ex II, 2 580s, 550, 540, a 3 million candlelight power spotlight, strobes, batteries, and all kinds of sources, reflectors, swatters..etc.
QUOTE(Kevin King @ November 27 2007, 10:00 PM)
Hey Jen!
You are already in great shape to do off camera lighting. Granted I'm a bit biased, but here's my honest suggestion for everything it's worth......
(Not sure how much you know on this so I don't mean any insult if I'm telling you what's obvious here)
1. Your existing flashes will shoot wireless off-camera without pocket wizards. If you put one of them on your camera (any of them) and put them in "Master" mode (the little switch at the bottom), it will send a serries of very fast light pulses which will activate the other flashes wirelessly. The other 3 - put in "Slave" mode. Leave their mode "ETTL" (the default mode) and they will "see" the pusles of light coming off the master and activate wirelessly.
2. As long as those slave units are in a small room or placed close to the master, they'll fire pretty reliably - look at the stuff on my website and blog - I shoot these flashes in that mode all the time, no PW's used.
3. The real advantage to using this method is that the camera will set the power output and exposure level of the slave flashes for each shot automatically. With PW's, you have to manually push your remote flashes up and down by hand and trial and error (or buy an external flash light meter, which really isn't necessary if you use the method above).
4. To adjust the overall output of the flashes use the Flash Exposure Compensation (FEC) - I feel this is the most under documented and under known and under appreciated feature of your entire camera system. It's the little symbol with the lightning bolt and the +/-. Push that up and all the flashes fire brighter, push it down and they all fire less - INDEPENDANT of your regular exposure settings (shutter speed, aperture). This is hugly powerful - if you want just a "touch" of extra light, dial the FEC down to -2 stops.
5. The only real limitation of the optical system (the wireless already built into your flashes) is that they have to "see" eachother and this isn't reliable in a fast moving situation where the shot is critical (like a bride coming down an isle - wouldn't dare shoot that with the current system). I have invented a product due to release in January called the RadioPopper that will fix this problem - it'll interperete the optical signal and send it over a radio signal - think of it like a PW that sends the ETTL information of your existing flashes. Check it out here: www.radiopopper.com - feel free to email me or ask here if you have any questions on that.
6. I would highly suggest you practice with what you've got and see how you like it. You've already got everything you need - you don't need to spend another dime to create awesome off camera stuff with the 4 flashes already in your bag. If you notice they mis-fire a lot because they don't "see" eachother, just know that RadioPopper will solve that problem in a couple months. And if you hate using ETTL (the existing system) then fine - you can always get PW's later, but remember again you're going to have to manually adjust the output power of your flashes individually and adjust your camera's exposure manually as appropriate - which boils down to a lot of trail and error, or a lot of brain work.
Taking advantage of wireless flash was a HUGE improvement in my own work - I owe a lot of my current ability to learning to use off camera lighting - and it's something that's not very well documented. The current industry standard is the PW because it's reliable, but in my opinion, not very usable in the situations we wedding and on location portrait shooters find ourselves in. I'm frustrated to see so little good information out there and so much mis-information and repeated poor advise and tribal knowledge on lighthing. I really hope the RadioPopper product will change a lot of that. With a part of the proceeds, I plan to fund some free online training videos that show the quick basics of how to use your current flashes. You can do some powerful stuff with these flashes and you don't even have to think about it. Between adjusting your FEC and regular exposure compensation dials, you can create some very dramatic looks with very little thought or effort - which is good, becuase we usually have to create these images in the middel of chaos with very little time.
I'd be happy to answer any questions you've got....
best of luck to you!!!
p.s. - I think off camera flash is the next "big" thing in this business. It's one of those ways an individual can separate themselves from their competitors. Everyone's got actions now, most people are shooting the same gear and producing a very similar look to their images - but the only way to get that punchy off camera light look - is to dig in and learn the lighting. It's going to be an exciting time - people are doing amazing work with their lights these days and I think this is only the start.
You are already in great shape to do off camera lighting. Granted I'm a bit biased, but here's my honest suggestion for everything it's worth......
(Not sure how much you know on this so I don't mean any insult if I'm telling you what's obvious here)
1. Your existing flashes will shoot wireless off-camera without pocket wizards. If you put one of them on your camera (any of them) and put them in "Master" mode (the little switch at the bottom), it will send a serries of very fast light pulses which will activate the other flashes wirelessly. The other 3 - put in "Slave" mode. Leave their mode "ETTL" (the default mode) and they will "see" the pusles of light coming off the master and activate wirelessly.
2. As long as those slave units are in a small room or placed close to the master, they'll fire pretty reliably - look at the stuff on my website and blog - I shoot these flashes in that mode all the time, no PW's used.
3. The real advantage to using this method is that the camera will set the power output and exposure level of the slave flashes for each shot automatically. With PW's, you have to manually push your remote flashes up and down by hand and trial and error (or buy an external flash light meter, which really isn't necessary if you use the method above).
4. To adjust the overall output of the flashes use the Flash Exposure Compensation (FEC) - I feel this is the most under documented and under known and under appreciated feature of your entire camera system. It's the little symbol with the lightning bolt and the +/-. Push that up and all the flashes fire brighter, push it down and they all fire less - INDEPENDANT of your regular exposure settings (shutter speed, aperture). This is hugly powerful - if you want just a "touch" of extra light, dial the FEC down to -2 stops.
5. The only real limitation of the optical system (the wireless already built into your flashes) is that they have to "see" eachother and this isn't reliable in a fast moving situation where the shot is critical (like a bride coming down an isle - wouldn't dare shoot that with the current system). I have invented a product due to release in January called the RadioPopper that will fix this problem - it'll interperete the optical signal and send it over a radio signal - think of it like a PW that sends the ETTL information of your existing flashes. Check it out here: www.radiopopper.com - feel free to email me or ask here if you have any questions on that.
6. I would highly suggest you practice with what you've got and see how you like it. You've already got everything you need - you don't need to spend another dime to create awesome off camera stuff with the 4 flashes already in your bag. If you notice they mis-fire a lot because they don't "see" eachother, just know that RadioPopper will solve that problem in a couple months. And if you hate using ETTL (the existing system) then fine - you can always get PW's later, but remember again you're going to have to manually adjust the output power of your flashes individually and adjust your camera's exposure manually as appropriate - which boils down to a lot of trail and error, or a lot of brain work.
Taking advantage of wireless flash was a HUGE improvement in my own work - I owe a lot of my current ability to learning to use off camera lighting - and it's something that's not very well documented. The current industry standard is the PW because it's reliable, but in my opinion, not very usable in the situations we wedding and on location portrait shooters find ourselves in. I'm frustrated to see so little good information out there and so much mis-information and repeated poor advise and tribal knowledge on lighthing. I really hope the RadioPopper product will change a lot of that. With a part of the proceeds, I plan to fund some free online training videos that show the quick basics of how to use your current flashes. You can do some powerful stuff with these flashes and you don't even have to think about it. Between adjusting your FEC and regular exposure compensation dials, you can create some very dramatic looks with very little thought or effort - which is good, becuase we usually have to create these images in the middel of chaos with very little time.
I'd be happy to answer any questions you've got....
best of luck to you!!!
p.s. - I think off camera flash is the next "big" thing in this business. It's one of those ways an individual can separate themselves from their competitors. Everyone's got actions now, most people are shooting the same gear and producing a very similar look to their images - but the only way to get that punchy off camera light look - is to dig in and learn the lighting. It's going to be an exciting time - people are doing amazing work with their lights these days and I think this is only the start.
THANK YOU Kevin! I first started with a 430EX and had always though the SLAVE function was for PW only. So, I've been saving up for some PW, that is until I saw a great deal on the 580EX II and jumped on it. Now after reading your post.. I tried it out at home.. and all I can say is.. THANK you for teaching me that!
You got my attention on the radiopopper.. would be very interested to see how that works and how well it works~!
Rui
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